Looking around for next winter's project, found M.V. VELARDE. A nice looking small reefer used mainly on the U.K. - Mediterranean trade. Decided to build the vessel using a Deans Marine glass-fibre hull and ordered one, planning to bring it back to Canada after a September visit to the U.K.
The Deans documentation is designed for a kit rather than a a scratch build, I prefer to build as much as possible myself as enjoy the challenge, so started to accumulate the necessary drawings and photos.
Looking though reams of pictures and other information began to think this vessel was not quite as attractive as first thought. Too late though, the hull had been ordered and paid for.
Encouraged by other modelers who have adapted proprietary glass-fibre hulls to build different models, began to explore the possibility of using the Velarde hull for another vessel.
Reviewing a book on cargo liners noticed M.V. TEAKWOOD, built in Sunderland in 1962. She had an attractive and unusual flowing look to her superstructure and rear deck. A comparison of scales and dimensions showed that a 1:96 scale Velarde hull would closely resemble a 1:133 scale Teakwood.
Intrigued by the similarities, started to examine the two vessels in more detail.
The length/beam ratio is almost identical and, as the Velarde hull is slightly taller, it could be trimmed down into the Teakwood. The Teakwood bow is steeper, the LBP longer and the counter stern fuller. Not sure about the hull sections, but freighters tend to be similar to other type vessels of the same era. Thus felt encouraged enough to further investigate modifying a Velarde hull into the Teakwood.
Continued to search for an elusive General Arrangement of the Teakwood to confirm my initial thoughts.

Finally obtained General Arrangement drawings for both vessels. Scaled them to the same size and superimposed the Teakwood hull drawing onto the Velarde. This confirmed that a conversion was possible and that much of the major rework would be limited to around the stern. The bow could be extended relatively easily and the bulwark heights trimmed and reshaped.
One point to remember in reviewing the attached photographs, the Velarde hull plan is slightly oversize. Have noticed when printing plans the humidity affects the paper and sizes can change slightly. This would not be of much importance when building a kit, but should be considered in a hull conversion.

With the two hulls superimposed and the Velarde adjusted to the correct size, considered the ways the hull could be adapted. Measuring sternwards from the revised bow profile found the correct LBP could be obtained if the Velarde rudder post was moved back about 5/16”.
This would also reduce the stern rework and allow the use of my traditional bow strengthener of bent wire from a steel coat hangar. This slight bow extension would help to offset the stern profile, with the hull and LBPs remaining the correct overall lengths.
In the photos the Velarde hull lines are black and the Teakwood red with pencil accents: they indicate the amount of bow/stern rework. The bulwarks are relatively simple, they only need lowering slightly.
Next step is to examine the actual hull and compare it with the plan to see how accurate it is. Hopefully this will confirm of my investigations - of course, could always leave the hull “as is” and use it that way. I would be only person aware of the differences! Unfortunately, being something of a purist, this easy way out did not compute.

Recently visited the U.K and collected the hull from a relative. it is now back in Canada so a detailed examination can be carried out.

First impressions are:
1) The Deans Velarde hull bulwarks have fortunately not been trimmed to the final dimensions, these are marked in pencil. The excess material will really help as the Teakwood forecastle extends further sternwards and this extra material avoids having to build the forward bulwarks up.
2) The hull has many details added to facilitate positioning; portholes, rubbing strakes etc. These will all have to be sanded off as they do not fit the Teakwood.
3) The Velarde has a pronounced “dodger” on top of the bulwarks around the bow. This will also have to be removed.
4) The bow leading edge is quite bluff, possibly to suite the GF manufacturing process. This will probably work in my favour as it can be extended forward and slimmed into the Teakwood style entry, which is sharper and more vertical.
5) The hull is slightly oversize (about .300”) , not enough to be concerned about, but it does make the revised LBP correct!
6) The hull is nicely made and a credit to Deans Marine.

The initial plan was to modify the hull shape first to adapt it into the Teakwood. Decided, as it is quite flexible, it would be better to add a keel strip, bulkheads and deck supports first. it would then become rigid enough to work.
This revision to my original thoughts proved the best approach. The hull needs several modifications, but until it is rigid it is premature to implement them. The modifications will only prove more difficult and then inaccurate.
Made up a number of plywood bulkheads, based upon the MM Velarde plan, but reduced in height to suite the Teakwood. As these are trial fitted into place in the GF hull further adjustments can be made.

Once satisfied with the bulkhead fit, they and the keel were epoxied into place.
Horizontal stringers were also added to ensure the bulkheads were accurately positioned, vertical and not twisted until the epoxy set. Can probably remove them once the hull structure is compete, although they could also be left in place to support the deck. Will probably largely leave in place.
Deck support stringers were also epoxied into place and the hull sides glued to them. The hull is now good and stiff and can be worked safely.
As the stern portion will require further adjustment, the sides were left free from the stern bulkhead rearwards. This will allow the rework without cutting through recently fitted items.

What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established.
The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height.
As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time.
Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height.
As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted.
Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis!
Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. in parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.

As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length.
Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical.
Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this.
The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid.
The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots.
This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released.
Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it.
The major stern work is now finished.

As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment.
One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them.
This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks.
The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads.
An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place.
Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program.
The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. it is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes.
The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities.
The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.

The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent.
Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth.
Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area.
Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside.
Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it.
One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!

There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust.
Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin.
After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete.
Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood.
Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss.
Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close.
Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.

Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences:
1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler.
2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model.
3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed.
4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true.
5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull.

Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels.
The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy.
The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance.
Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs!
Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull.
These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. it can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though!
From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.