Steam Tug - Seguin
Specifiche
- Lunghezza della barca
- 40" (101.60 cm)
- Peso della barca
- 6kg (212 oz)
- Tipo di motore
- Brushed
- Tipo di propulsione
- Direct
- Eliche
- Single
- Tipo di batteria
- Lead Acid
- mAh della batteria
- 5Ah (5,000 mAh)
- Tipo di elica
- 4 Blade
- Dimensione elica
- 70mm
- Tempo di esecuzione
- 1.5+ hrs
Foto
Informazioni su questa barca
Also in the photo are 2 renovations projects I have not yet begun - a Midwest Jim Wilder and a Dumas American Beauty.
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Commenti
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My Seguin was originally posted for sale @ $500.00, and was lowered to $250.00 after 2 weeks with no sale.
I pointed out what I considered necessary to make the boat usable again.
I respectfully offered $100.00, and she countered at $120.00, which I accepted.
At this price, I have room to make the necessary updates and retro fixes and still be in the boat at what I hope to be a reasonable cost.
I didn't NEED another boat, but I've always liked the looks of the Seguin. And this one appears to need minimal investment to make it "right".
Alessandro, yes, I intend to leave it in the natural wood finish.
Dave B
PS Fishercat, I apologize for hijacking your post ... I didn't think it would expand the way it did.
How much did you pay for this fine model?
You find a number of nice models up there in your area.
Estate sales and Marketplace
Oh I forgot Dave, you should also complete the system to lower the lifeboat into the water.
You need blocks and cordage.
If you want detailed directions on this they can give it to you, in any case I like how Fishercat made them and you can copy from his photo.
In the Danish ship collections I posted a few days ago there may be many useful images that are just right for you.
Hi Dave, I would have followed Fishercat's advice as well.
You're lucky there are no deadeyes for tensioning the shrouds. Those were old, somewhat complicated systems for tightening the rigging—though I'm sure you're already familiar with them.
You're fortunate to be able to use steel turnbuckles (in modeling, other alloys or metals might be used).
In my opinion, there is absolutely no need to tension them to the absolute maximum. In real life, this was done because the shrouds actually held the masts in place and provided stability, but in modeling, it's different. In modeling, the shrouds serve a purely aesthetic purpose—simply to recreate the model faithfully; in fact, as you can see, the mast can be fixed and held in position even without them.
Naturally, you shouldn't leave them slack or loose, as that would look bad.
Keep in mind that temperature fluctuations and varying humidity levels significantly affect shroud tension if they are made of hemp or plant fibers—I speak from personal experience here.
Fishercat used brass, so he doesn't have that issue. An excellent solution.
As I understand it, Fishercat pointed out a major issue: you have to remove the shrouds to open the deck hatch. One solution was likely using small elastic bands.
Alternatively, to avoid using elastic bands, you could use open hooks (provided they are very strong). In that case, however, you wouldn't be able to tension the shrouds to the maximum.
How much did you pay for this ship model? If you'd like to share that—otherwise, don't worry about it; just ignore the question.
Last night, after a couple of glasses of wine, I made a polite but lowball offer on the Seguin listed on FB Marketplace.
Within minutes, my offer was accepted, if I could pick it up (100 miles away) by 10 AM today.
I'm now the proud owner of a seemingly well-built 50-year-old build (or so) Seguin.
It will need a new receiver and speed control, but I believe the servo and motor will be OK.
My dear wife asked, "And where are you going to put THAT one?"
Dave B
PS The shrouds and stays are way too short to reach the hooks on the deck. It appears the original owner used rubber bands to bridge the gap.
Can somebody who has built one, or has plans, tell me how the shrouds and stays were meant to be fastened?